Mt Pumori Expedition

Duration: 35 Days     
  • Destination: Nepal
  • Trip Style: Trekking, Culture Tours
  • Transport: Flight
  • Group Size: 1 +
  • Max Elevation: 7161m
  • Type of Trek: Camping
  • Trekking Hour: 5-6/ Day

Mt. Pumori is a huge pyramid shaped 7169 meters mountain in the Himalaya on Nepal-Tibet border. Pumori lies just eight kilometers west of Mount Everest. Pumori, which means "Unmarried Daughter" in the Sherpa language, was named by George Mallory. Climbers sometimes refer to Pumori as "Everest's Daughter".

Mt. Pumori is a popular climbing peak and the easiest route is graded class 3, although with avalanche danger. Pumori was first climbed in 1962 by Gerhard Lenser of a German-Swiss expedition. Two Czechs (LeopaldSulovsky and MichalecZeduak) climbed a new route on the South face in the spring of 1996 (Joe Simpson, 1997, Dark Shadows falling).

An outlier of Pumori is Kala Patthar (5,545m/18,192'), which appears as a big brown bump below the impressive south face of Pumori. Many trekkers going to see Mt. Everest up close will attempt to climb to the top of Kala Patthar. The views from almost anywhere of Kala Patther Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse are truly spectacular on a sunny day.

The Mount Pumori Base camp can be reached from Kathmandu - Lukla flight; and then trekking via Namche Bazaar, Thangboche - Pheriche and Lobuche. Mount Pumori is 7145m. High and ascent starts at 5,300m; which is beside a beautiful small lake from here you can get a beautiful sight of Mt. Everest and Kalapthar at 5545m. Camp 1: After a 3 hrs walk you will reach camp 1 or advance base camp 5700m. After that you will have to walk the distance of 500m with the elevation of 40 to 65 degrees slopes. Mount Pumori has many rocks and mixed climb cross, steep and exposed to wind narrow ridges, some ice walls, and one tunnel climb. Some times you may need fixed ropes also.

Camp 2: Mt. Pumari expedition camp to tri starts at 6200m. Pumari camp II is located on a narrow ridge; so there is no fear of avalanches. The next 400m, Is an ice climb with 35-65 degrees above-5000m high, is the Ice walls, many crevasses, and the bigger avalanche danger from big seracs hanging from the shoulder of 6500m.

Now camp 3 of Pumari expedition:Pumari expedition camp 3 is too windy part of expedition. At the height of 6850m, from where you can see Tibetan plateau; and you need rope here because of many crevasses and ice wall's way to summit. After that there are two climbing ranges; one from Tibet side and other is from Nepal side. Between these 2 sides the Nepal side is easier to Mount Pumori Summit. After this walk, the Summit is easy to reach on itssummitPumori 7145m.

Normal route: This is the easier route to climb Pumari peak and most of the expedition coteries climbed Pumari peak by applying this route. As you know Pumori is not easy as like the other mountains, there are difficult technical parts in this route as well. We suggest you that, you should take climbing Sherpa; who will guide you nicely to reach on top of the Pumori. You need to have at least 3 camps after base camp to reach the summit. The base camp of mount Pumari is just above GorekShep at the altitude of 5300m. After base camp, you can set up first camp at the altitude of 5,650m, around the phase of Mount Pumori.

You should set second camp at the ridge after the phase at the altitude of 6,000m. The most technical part for this peak is around camp 1 and 2. You should set camp 3 at the altitude of 6,480m, around the corner after the ridge.

You can ascend the summit from the camp 3 to the zenith of Pumori. Most of the climbers use this route every year for the expedition to Mt. Pumori to limb.

South - West ridge of Pumari expedition: Very few climbers tried this route, but it is very difficult route. This route follows directly from the top of Kalapathar and goes straight over the ridge nearly by 75 Degree. As this route has lot of technical difficulties; so we suggest you to use the normal route for the Mt. Pumori and your group will comfortably reach on its Top.

Outline Itinerary

  • Day 1Arrival Kathmandu & transfer to Hotel.
  • Day 2Kathmandu- Prepare Expedition.
  • Day 3Briefing expedition in Ministry of tourism.
  • Day 4Flight to Lukla& trek to Phakding lodge.
  • Day 5Phakding to Namche lodge.
  • Day 6Namche rest for acclimatization lodge.
  • Day 7Namche - Thyanboche lodge.
  • Day 8Thyangboche - Pheriche lodge.
  • Day 9Pheriche - Lobuche lodge.
  • Day 10Lobuche - Pumori Base Camp - Camping.
  • Day 11-29Climbing Period for Pumori 7,145m. [ Route Map ].
  • Day 30Pumori BC - Pangboche -Lodge.
  • Day 31Pangboche - Namche -Lodge.
  • Day 32Namche - Lukla - Lodge.
  • Day 33Fly Lukla - Kathmandu & transfer hotel.
  • Day 34Kathmandu.
  • Day 35final departures.

What’s Included

  • 4 nights accommodation in Kathmandu with bed & breakfast with Tourist Standard Hotel.
  • Permit fee of Pumori 7145m.Expedition.
  • Food for Trekking and Expedition period for Pumori.
  • Staff: Base camp Guide, Cook, Cook helper.
  • Porters or Yak porter Lukla to Base camp & Base camp to Lukla.
  • Kathmandu -Lukla - Kathmandu flights with Cargo 30 KG Per member.
  • Equipment allowance, daily allowance for Liaison officer, expedition crew.
  • Insurance for Nepalese expedition crew.
  • 1 tent for 1 person for Expedition.
  • Mat, dining tent, Toilet tent, Mess tent, Store tent, Table and chairs trekking for the expedition.
  • Local transportation in Kathmandu (Airport-hotel-Airport).
  • Emergency Oxygen -Mask and regulator.
  • Satellite phone (Pay calls).
  • Fare Well dinner.
  • Personal equipment for climbing & trekking.
  • Personal & medical Insurance of expedition.
  • Climbing food, Gas & stove above Base camp.
  • Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu.
  • Emergency Rescue evacuation by helicopter incase needed.
  • Walkie Talkie permit & Satellite phone permit.
  • Oxygen & Mask -regulator.
  • Personal expenses.
  • Bar Bills & beverage.
  • Garbage Deposit USD 3,000.00 (Sharing of the total person) and Deposit fee will be not refunded if the clients (climber) don't take back their garbage to Namche Bazaar & Kathmandu.

Useful Information

Green Valley Nepal Treks and Research Hub believe in the quality services. Our main concern is the safety and the well being of our groups. Our entire trips are running by qualified who are full time employee of our company. They are well trained and certified by Government. We believe in the best services and make sure to you that we never compromise on your comfort and safety. Further more we request you to put more questions on your planning phase of adventure journey with Green Valley Nepal Treks.